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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.