Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
